Valves

Stuck Valve

lboulerice 6/1/00 11:16 pm

I have a stuck valve on a cast iron engine. What is the best way to free it up? It is tighter than a frog's butt in ice water! I have managed to move it by filling the cylinder with rope and cranking it over with a pry bar in the flywheel. There must be a better way? Any ideas? I don't want to disassemble the engine, if at all possible. Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks! Leo

johnniemann1999 6/5/00 12:24 pm

Remove spark plugs,cam cover, cam and cam followers this will allow you to oil the valve with automatic trans fluid also put some in the cylinders. Allow this to sit for a couple hours. To replace cam turn engine so #1 is at top dead center. place cam so that the first lobe #1 exhaust is pointing to 10 o'clock and #1 intake is pointing to 2 O'clock. This usually works.

Size

klownskar 12/6/01 8:57 am

Are the intake & exhaust valves the same size? Are they the same metal (heat treating)? Thanks.

Jim_Bollman 12/6/01 8:28 pm

The intake valve is bigger than the exhaust. Not sure about the stock valves but I know after market you could get special hardened exhaust valves to resist burning the seats. Jim...

 

Springs

viper1941 2/29/00 6:39 pm

In reference to my valve spring statement of last msg...There wasn't another engine type that fit...my dad just took the springs down to Miami parts and spring and had the stock ones retempered..and (believe it or not) he had Crosleys turning upwards of 9000 revs. I recall missing shifts on my little s/w and hitting 6500 and mine was just a little better than stock. The biggest limiting factors were the cranks and very mild cams...My dad was often accused of making rubber cams...the higher the revs...the wilder the grind....AHHH...I babble again... Viper

The Crosley did not come with hardened valves seats so depending on how hard and how many miles you plan to put on your engine you may have  valve problems someday.  I haven't heard of any problems caused by unleaded.  Some people have had hardened seats installed, I ran gas additives for awhile and lately I dump a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank ever so often.  Not sure either helps but I only run about 500 miles a year and while I run it pretty hard it isn't like I'm racing it.

For those on the group with advanced engine rebuilding skills...is their merit to putting bronze guides for the exhaust valves?

Yes, there are several advantages to bronze guides over iron guides. They have better lubrication properties so you can run the stem to guide clearances a little tighter. This make the valve run cooler and also lets less oil pass by the stem. Also, due to the better lube tendencies, you can run a better seal on the valves to further reduce oil past the guides. The bronze guides will never be worn out in a Crosley, in virtually every block that I tear down the stock iron  guides are worn out. The only drawback to bronze guides is, they are tough to machine (it's this same toughness that makes them last forever) and once a reamer has been used on an iron guide, it really shouldn't be used on bronze guides. I think enough of them that bronze is all I install on both intakes and exhausts in our shop, and I do quite a few of them.